The 2004 Oscar Tobia Reserva has no such problems. It is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Garnacha aged for 21 months in 60% French (I year), 20% American (new) , and 20% Hungarian oak (new). Inky purple, it has an excellent bouquet of wood smoke, mineral, violets, espresso, and blackberry. This leads to a layered wine with tons of spicy fruit, ripe flavors, and excellent depth and concentration. Nicely balanced, it has a 40-second, pure finish. Give it 2-3 years and drink it through 2025.Importer: Thomas George, Frontier Wine Imports, Dover, NJ; tel. (973) 328-4500

Clean, slightly smoky, heady, held back with rich, rich fruits underneath, exotic spice, incense.