Just about any French vineyard owner will talk terroir given the opportunity, but no one argues the case for terroir more passionately than Marcel Deiss. Should any readers be traveling to Alsace, Deiss is definitely a man worth visiting. All of his wines exhibit distinctive personalities. Deiss produced two outstanding examples of Tokay-Pinot Gris in 1992. Both the 1992 Tokay-Pinot Gris Bergheim (from limestone soils) and the 1992 Tokay-Pinot Gris Altenberg are concentrated, powerful wines with 13%-14% alcohol. Both are dry, but by Deiss's standards, fatter than he would prefer. These are large-scaled, well-endowed, rich, young wines made from yields of less than two tons per acre. The Altenberg reveals more botrytis in the nose, but both wines possess plenty of honey, and gobs of flavor and power. Drinkable now, they promise to evolve for a decade. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083