The chalk and mineral-scented 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Bergheim is medium-bodied, tightly wound, and backward. Its concentrated core displays excellent richness as well as smoky pears, apples, and honeysuckle. This austere wine should blossom with a year or two of cellaring to reveal its full potential. Projected maturity: 2001-2006.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.