The 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Aux Boudots displays an alluring sweetness of black cherry, and nutmeg, and cocoa powder. Yet for all of its obvious, generous ripeness and expansiveness, silken texture, it retains a fine fruit edge. Meat and minerals may come later. With ravishing, seductive length, it is an early charmer that might also be a keeper; but plan to revisit and relish it in 2-3 years. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.