Even better is the explosive 2007 Pinot Noir Estate, which possesses abundant amounts of boysenberry, black raspberry, forest floor, roasted herb, and subtle smoke characteristics. Rich, textured, pure, and profound, this deep Pinot has the acidity and tannin necessary to age easily for 5-8 years. Melville’s six Pinot Noir cuvees are all noteworthy. With the exception of the Verna’s Vineyard wines, which come from Los Alamos, the other five are all made from different parcels of the same vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills, with various density of plantings as well as clonal choices. Tel. (805) 235-7030

Here’s a big, rich, full-bodied and rather extracted wine, made in a powerful style. It shows a gamut of well-ripened cherry, blackberry pie, licorice, grilled wild mushroom and forest floor components, with significant tannins. Give it 4–6 years to hit its stride.——S.H.(11/1/2009)—— 92