The 2009 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills makes for an excellent introduction to the wines of this appellation. It is a wonderfully fresh, vibrant wine graced with exquisite finesse and class. Sweet, floral notes reappear on the finish, adding lift and subtlety. This is classy juice. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Melville is one of the better known properties in Santa Barbara. The estate makes a wide range of wines under the direction of oenologist Greg Brewer, and also sells fruit to a number of other producers. The 2009 Pinot Noirs in particular are standouts. Brewer vinified the Pinots with one-third whole clusters. The 2010 Chardonnays had only recently been bottled and needed quite a bit of air to blow off some of their reductive qualities. Tel. (805) 735-7030; www.melvillewinery.com

Just sings in the glass. So clean, crisp, elegant, the real deal. Cool-climate Pinot at it most succulent. Brims with raspberry, cherry and tart cranberry fruit, with notes of sweet sandalwood, white pepper and dusty pie spices, like cinnamon and clove. Wonderful now and for the next few years.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 92