Moving over to the single-vineyard expressions, the 2009 Barolo Cerequio is graced with silky finesse and beautifully integrated tannins that give the wine both structure and staying power, but in a very unobtrusive manner. Like some of the best 2009 Barolos to be found, it delivers a smoky mineral note of brimstone or lead pencil that is simply divine. The wine is highly representative of one of the greatest vineyards in the La Morra township. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. Having already dabbled in the textile and publishing industries, Silvano and Elena Boroli (now with their son Achille) moved their attention to winemaking in the mid 1990s. They built the showcase La Brunella winery in Castiglione Falletto (the building is entirely encased in barrel staves) with state-of-the-art equipment and a panoramic tasting room. Walk onto the property and the feeling you get is more Napa Valley than Piedmont. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Rose, candied cherry, strawberry, tobacco and leather flavors signal this firmly structured red, with supple fruit up front and dusty, mouthcoating tannins on the finish. Needs time to integrate. Best from 2018 through 2029. 1,200 cases made, 330 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add