Daniel Lafitte’s estate near Maury was new to me this year, and I cannot say I yet have a fix on his style, since I found three of his wines really lovely and some others merely good. The Soulanes 2004 Cuvee Jean Pull smells of black raspberry preserves, toasted grain and malt. At one and the same time lush and vividly juicy in the mouth, it exhibits really refined (not to say vanishing) tannins, and finishes with a demure but extended meld of black raspberry, cardamom, honey and sage. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800