Far more interesting is the 2010 Merlot Howell Mountain, which comes from the K-J owned vineyards of Keyes and Veeder Peak. Composed of 89% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, it reveals lots of chocolate, graphite, black cherry and plum notes as well as an austere level of tannins, and consequently seems rather Bordeaux-like. Made in an old style without the extra ripeness and flesh found in most California Merlots today, it should age nicely for 5-10 years. Now owned by Kendall-Jackson, but with long-time winemaker Ted Edwards still firmly in control, Freemark Abbey has produced a large assortment of wines ranging from very good to exceptional. Tel. (707) 302-3721