The outstanding, saturated dark plum-colored 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee possesses notes of scorched earth, roasted herbs, smoked duck, and a boatload of kirsch liqueur fruitiness. Full-bodied, with moderate tannin and impressive purity and concentration, this wine should be cellared for 1-3 years, and drunk over the following 12-15. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949