The 2001 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonnieres exhibits liqueur of mineral-like notes along with citrus, orange peel, and formidable structure. Less charming and overtly fruity than the Petite Ruche, but more austere and “serious,” it should drink well for 3-5 years. These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff.Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Somewhat meaty, with chunky apricot and pear aromas as well as apple, lemon and herb flavors. There’s good power here, more so than poise, so while it’s short on complexity, it’s full-flavored and forward. ——M.S.(9/1/2003)—— 86