The 2004 Montiano is a richly-textured effort, boasting layers of deeply expressive, concentrated fruit intermingled with sweet toasted oak nuances and a generous, engaging personality. This 100% Merlot was made from low yields and spent 12 months in French oak Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

One of the best Montianos ever, this is as dark as a moonless night. Its appearance alone bears the mark of Merlot master Riccardo Cotarella. It is a bold overstatement—backed by mindbending complexity—with aromas of black cherry, milk chocolate, red brick, campfire and bacon. Velvety in look and taste, it delivers chewy tannins, a solid consistency and a long, spice-driven finish. ——M.L.(3/1/2007)—— 93