The 2005 Barbera d’Asti Camp du Rouss is made from higher-quality vineyards than the Avvocata and aged in French oak. This super-ripe Barbera comes across as juicy and forward, with leather, spices and sweet toasted oak that complement the generous fruit. It provides a fascinating contrast to the Avvocata, in that it is a different, but not necessarily better, wine. One can only wonder what a wine made from the best fruit and aged in neutral oak might taste like here. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Coppo is one of Piedmont’s historic properties. Although the Coppo brothers excel with Barbera, (which is particularly expressive in these hills) the rest of the range is well worth a look.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620