Big and concentrated this offerings is, appropriately, called The Beast. Tighter knit, more structured, and more obviously tannic than the 2003, the 2004 Shiraz The Beast exhibits abundant floral notes interwoven with scents of blueberries, blackberries, and subtle wood. It is fabulously concentrated and firmer in the finish, suggesting it will age beautifully for 12-15+ years. This red is a concentrated, full-throttle effort representing a classic example of Barossa winemaking, and, like so many Australian and New Zealand wines, it is finished with a screw cap. Importer: Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9463

The Beast seems to be in a bit of an awkward stage right now, showing a touch of alcohol atop its cedar, blackberries, vanilla and chocolate. It’s full-bodied, firmly structured by dusty tannins, and shows good drive and freshness, although there’s a slightly raisiny edge to the finish. Give it another few years to pull itself together. Drink 2010–2020.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 90