The 2006 Pinot Noir Cote Est is dark ruby-colored with aromas of pain grille, spice box, black cherry, and black raspberry. It has a bit more structure than the preceding wines along with layers of fruit, darker flavors, and a pure, fruit-filled finish. Tom and Deb Mortimer purchased their property in the Chehalem Mountains AVA in 1997 and began planting in 1999. Currently there are 10 acres in production with another 5 to come on-line next year. Four Pinot Noirs are produced, all from estate fruit, and each is made by a different winemaker. www.lecadeauvineyard.com

The Cote Est Pinot Noir is more structured and less immediately accessible than the winery’s Rocheux bottling, but ultimately may prove to be the better bottle. It offers tightly woven, chewy fruit flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and plum, along with darker streaks of clove, leaf, smoke and earth. As always, the wine is structured with elegant precision.——P.G.(10/1/2008)—— 92