The soft, elegant 2009 St.-Peray Terres Boisses is very good, but it lacks the concentration, complexity and nuances of its two siblings. These are undeniably the greatest wines made at Voge since the early 1990s. In top years, the brilliant oenologist Albert Mazoyers produces three separate Cornas cuvees. Only two were made in 2008, Les Chailles (a lieu-dit in Cornas) and Les Vieilles Vignes, a selection of their oldest vines. In great vintages, the flagship cuvee called Les Vieilles Fontaines is produced. It typically ranks alongside Auguste Clape’s Cornas as the “Cornas of the vintage.” The spectacular amphitheater that forms the Cornas appellation produces better wines in challenging vintages than many other appellations since it forms a natural bowl for capturing heat. Moreover, with its well-drained soils it is always a good candidate in some of the tougher vintages such as 2008. The 2009 Cornas offerings are spectacular, being more forward and precocious as well as evolved. Importer: Citadel Trading Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 245-2844