This is big stuff—“Pinot on steroids,” wrote one taster, with a dense, smoky, meaty, neo-Syrah nose. Leather and cola notes accent the dark briary, raisiny fruit and the texture is chewy. There was dissent, however—one panelist found the scale and sweet flavors just too much and too un-Pinot-like. But the majority said, bring it on, typical or not. ——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 90