The 1997 Vin Santo di Montepulciano offers up a compelling array of toffee, coffee beans, dried figs and licorice in a full-bodied, totally opulent style. This luxurious, sumptuous wine reveals superb balance and an eternal finish, with closing notes of mocha and espresso that linger on the close. The Vin Santo is a touch lighter – if that is truly the right word – than the Occhio di Pernice, with a more pronounced floral component. In this vintage they are both profound and very close in terms of quality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2029. The highlights among these new releases from Avignonesi, not surprisingly, are the Vin Santos, which in 1997 are nothing short of utterly profound. The wines actually benefit from being opened at least several hours prior to being served. As we went to press the Falvo family announced the sale of its remaining 10% holding in the winery to Virginie Saverys, director of Compagnie Maritime Belge, a Belgian shipping company. Ms. Saverys has been a shareholder since 2007. Based on the reds I have tasted here throughout the years there certainly seems to be an opportunity to increase quality in many of the wines. It is hard to imagine any proprietor in their right mind doing anything to touch the Vin Santos, as these remain some of the most profound wines in the world.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Made with Malvasia Toscano and Trebbiano grapes (unlike the slightly more complex Occhio di Pernice Vin Santo, which is made from Sangiovese), this is a delightfully rich and concentrated sweet wine that boasts unreal levels of intensity and personality. The wine is smooth and round with lingering notes of brown sugar, roasted almond, melted sugar, dried apricots and figs. ——M.L.(7/1/2010)—— 97