The 1998 Vin Santo di Montepulciano bursts from the glass with the essence of espresso, mocha, toffee, burnt sugar, hazelnuts and spices. The 1998 is an especially opulent version of the Vin Santo, even by this house’s standards. The finish lasts an eternity as the sweet, dense fruit flows through to the finish. As always, the Vin Santo shows elements of florality that distinguish it from the decidedly darker, brooding Occhio di Pernice, most of which can be attributed to the use of white grapes. The estate’s Vin Santo is Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano that was first air-dried for six months, then vinified and aged for ten years in small oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Avignonesi is one of the best-known names in Tuscany. Once again, the Vin Santos are the show stoppers.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405