The 1996 Vin Santo is made from a blend of indigenous white varieties, including Grechetto, Malvasia Toscana and Trebbiano and was aged for an incredible 10 years in small 50-liter barrels prior to being bottled. A dark amber, the wine flows onto the palate with a lush, airy texture that is hard to fully describe with mere words but that recalls some of the great Chambers Rosewood wines from Australia. Expansive and sweet on the palate, it reveals mind-blowing richness and concentration in its kaleidoscope of raisins, dried figs, plums, baking spices, toffee and roasted coffee beans. Despite its full-bodied, unctuous texture, the wine remains remarkably light on its feet and shows incredible detail for such a big wine. In 1996 I actually prefer the Vin Santo to its bigger sibling, the Occhio di Pernice. There are just under 1,600 bottles of this delicious nectar. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.Avignonesi remains a solid producer in the Montepulciano and Cortona appelations, yet it is with their Vin Santos that the estate truly excels. These are some of the most unique and intense sweet wines being made anywhere, even if the 1996s don’t seem to possess the complexity of the very finest vintages.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405