A powerful effort, the 1997 Barbaresco Riserva Paje captures the essence of the vintage in its sweet ripe fruit and soft, open texture while still showing plenty of underlying structure to provide balance. A beautiful, engaging wine, it should also drink well relatively early for this estate. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Importer: Louis Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191.