The 1998 Barbaresco Riserva Paje is a deep, penetrating effort, bursting with cherries galore along with notes of spices, licorice and menthol. Rich and full-bodied, yet supported by classic structure and big, imposing tannins, it is a vibrant, powerful Barbaresco that will require at least a few more years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Importer: Louis Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191.