A certain school of thought in the Marches believes that Sangiovese is not suited to the region and that producers would do better to concentrate on Montepulciano. I can’t say that I agree with the theory, particularly after tasting the 2001 Saltapicchio of Elvidio Alessandri, pure and focused Sangiovese with the red berry fruit, the herbs, tobacco, and underbrush, and the length, vitality, and structure of this variety at its best. Drink: 2006-2016. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411