Amavi Cellars Semillon, Walla Walla Valley, USA

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Amavi’s white offering is a barrel-fermented 2005 Semillon. Light gold-colored, it has an intriguing nose of candle wax and honeydew melon with a hint of vanilla spice in the background. This is followed by a medium-bodied, intense wine with excellent balance and a long, pure finish. This outstanding effort is likely to evolve for several years but can be enjoyed now. Tel. (509) 525-3541; www.amavicellars.com

This exceptionally rich Semillon is aged in neutral barrels. The fruit is firm and tart, showing a mix of pineapple and green citrus and berry. An underlying minerality adds texture and more firmness; the wine does not show excessive flesh, but is loaded with lovely acid and fruit, and a hint of toastiness in the finish. About one third comes from 25-year-old vines, some of the state’s oldest Semillon. ——P.G.(5/1/2007)—— 91