This medium ruby wine remains closed, but exhibits adequate ripeness of fruit. However, the hard tannins are cause for concern. The 1981 Ausone is a medium-weight wine, with good concentration, but I believe it will always be an austere, tough-textured, charmless wine. It still needs 10 years to soften and develop. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted, 1/90.

Solid and youthful, with fresh character. Berry and milk chocolate aromas. Has a medium body with firm tannins and lively fruit. Drink or hold.--The Bordeaux 50. -JS