Latour’s estate-bottled 2006 Corton Charlemagne displays lime peel, resin, and chalk dust in the nose; its sappy, pit- and citrus-fruit dominated palate resists the wine’s 100% new wood well; and it finishes invigoratingly with an extended reprise of citrus, resin, and chalk. This should keep well for at least 6-8 years. Latour’s very old vines in this site gave their last in 2004, but the average age of vines now is still a respectable 30 years. Admirable concentration and clarity characterize the somewhat firmer and more static 2005. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here. Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.

An open, rich white, with a core of peach and apple accented by honey and spice. Loose-knit and toasty on the long finish, which echoes the spice theme. Drink now through 2018. 3,600 cases made. -BS