It might initially seem paradoxical that Kesselstatt’s refined and elegant 2004 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett feinherb, which displays a subtle interplay of peach, citrus and salty mineral, does not nearly rise to the level of uncanny texture, balance, and layered complexity as its counterpart from Gottesfuss. But there are two factors in play. First, the Scharzhofberg being the preeminent site of Wiltingen, the estate is only sacrificing younger vines and lesser parcels for this bottling. Second, Gottesfuss had an inherent advantage this vintage vis a vis Scharzhofberg, because the former is especially rocky and fast draining (whereas the Scharzhofberg held the advantage in torrid, dry 2003). Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.