Cathiard’s 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Murgers offers beautifully-focused aromas and flavors of cassis, black raspberry, and meat stock. Quite creamy in texture, with chalky, smoky, brown spice, and floral inner-mouth character, this acts like a Nuits that could be Vosne. The combination of clarity with creaminess in the finish is uncanny. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70