Also fully mature, the 2006 Vacqueyras les Genestes is the estate’s old vine blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah that spent 18 months in concrete tanks. Fully mature, with light bricking at the edges, it offers fabulously Provencal notes of cured meats, toasted spices, licorice and currants, as well as medium-bodied richness, notable ripeness and a supple, sexy texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. Like with the Signature release, there’s no upside, but it will drink nicely for at least 3-4 years.

The outstanding 2006 Vacqueyras Les Genestes is produced from the estate’s oldest vines. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of red and black fruits, bouquet garni, meat juices, spice, and pepper. The stunning aromatics are matched by complex flavors. This full-bodied 2006 should drink nicely for 6-8 years. Proprietor Jocelyn Chudzikiewicz’s Domaine des Amouriers has always been one of my reference points for high quality Vacqueyras. From their 25 acres in this appellation, they generally make three cuvees, two from Vacqueyras and a Vin de Pays from 100% Syrah. While the Signature is generally a blend of 68% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Les Genestes is usually 65% Grenache and 35% Syrah. These wines are aged completely in cement tanks before bottling.Importers: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083; and J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441

This wine’s 15% alcohol is immediately noticeable, but offset by flavors notes that run from cassis and cherry to cola and spice. There’s plenty of intensity on the finish and a lush, creamy mouthfeel.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 86