The Lambrays 2007 Morey-St.-Denis mingles brown spices, resin, and a faint touch of greenness with fresh though low-key red fruits. There is a bit of a numbing of tannin on the gums, but this avoids being too spare, and is clean and juicy in finish. I would enjoy it over the next couple of years. Thierry Brouin claims that “extreme selectivity and 4,700 bottles of Bourgogne rose” (of which, however, he didn’t open one for me) was his “formula” for 2008 excellence. I last tasted the wines – some lots of which didn’t finish malo until December – assembled from tank just prior to their March bottling. The 2007s were bottled in that month as well, “proper” wines – notes Brouin – “rendered from fruit that didn’t look very good.” Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800