The indigenous Nero d'Avola grape makes a brilliant appearance in the 1999 Santa Cecilia. It reveals a deep ruby/purple color along with a dense, chocolatey, black fruit-scented nose with tell-tale toasty new oak. It possesses plenty of suppleness and richness as well as a layered mouth-feel presented in a quasi-international style. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

If you love sweet dark fruit—indeed, if the word “carnival” appeals to you when applied to wine—this is a keeper. Aromas of pine trees and cloves are echoed in the mouth with candy apple flavors, big dark fruit concentration and cotton candy. It’s a triumph of a certain style.——C.S.(5/1/2002)—— 90