The 2007 Santa Cecilia (Nero d-Avola) reveals gorgeous varietal perfume but falls a bit short on the mid-palate. In 2007, the Santa Cecilia doesn't quite have the plumpness and sheer juiciness that make the best vintages so irresistible. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This is a solid set of wines from Planeta, one of Sicily's better-known estates. As good as the best of these wines can be, they are also very safe. It would be nice to see Planeta take some more chances and make wines with a little more ambition. The raw materials certainly seem to be present to make that happen.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

A fine wine at an approachable price, Santa Cecilia (a pure expression of Nero d’Avola) is a study in the best of Sicilian winemaking. This ruby-colored red is redolent of mature fruit, blackberry, Mediterranean herbs and toasted pistachio. The wine is firm and structured but soft and generous on the palate.——M.L.(4/1/2010)—— 92