A strong briar-patch nose is accented by cola, creamy vanilla, and finely toasted oak. It’s much the classic Rutherford big boy, with black-currant, licorice and tobacco notes. Yet it remains cool and light, not heavy or corpulent. Fine tannins close it out, leaving us with a more positive impression than in our original review, which appeared in the July issue.——W.E.(9/1/2000)—— 90