The dark ruby/purple-tinged 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Dead Fred Vineyard is a more structured, less charming effort at present, but it has more layers as well as 10-15 years of upside potential. The tannins are noticeable, but sweet. Notes of plums, earth and spice can be found in this dense 2008. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age to come into its own. It’s a shame Merlot has taken such a beating. Certainly, the poor examples have fallen by the wayside, but some good ones are still out there and readers need to pay more attention to them. It’s a world-class grape so forget the absurdity of the anti-Merlot nonsense in the movie “Sideways.”Tel. (707) 258-8119; Fax (707) 258-8132

This is an ultrarich, ripe Cabernet, marked by jammy blackberry, blueberry and cherry fruit flavors, with a milk chocolate sweetness and soft, intricate tannins. Made in the soft, modern style, it’s best over the next six years. ——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 90