Bartolo Mascarello’s 2001 Barolo remains one the most quirky and idiosyncratic wines on the market. Initially soft and delicate, it offers a lovely core of open-knit, expressive macerated cherries, raspberries, spices, tar, freshly ground coffee beans and earthiness, giving the impression of being fairly ready to drink. With air, multiple tastings reveal a wine that has put on considerable weight, completely changing its personality to a big, structured Barolo supported by plenty of acidity and tannins to age. Though it freshened up considerably over time, it never became completely clean. At once highly compelling yet frustratingly flawed, it will appeal to readers who can look past its funky notes. That said, several recent bottles have been outstanding so I have upgraded my score accordingly. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2026. Maria Theresa Mascarello assures me that she will absolutely continue to make her wines in the style of her father and grandfather, which is to say traditional in every sense. “The idea of a perfect wine doesn’t exist. I am trying to make an honest wine, one that reflects all of the qualities of our territory, both its strengths as well as its flaws,” says Mascarello. “There are only a few sites that can really give expressive wines. Our ancestors used to look at the hills in the winter, and where the snow melted first, they planted Nebbiolo. Today Nebbiolo is planted everywhere. For example, the vineyard where we have our Dolcetto has a good exposure, but it was never considered a first-rate exposure, so it was always planted with Dolcetto....today it is all Nebbiolo, only we have kept Dolcetto in that vineyard.” The estate produces one Barolo, which is made from a blend of some of the best plots in the region. The vineyards are typically harvested in the following order: San Lorenzo, Cannubi, Torriglione, Rue, and the grapes are vinified together. The wines are fermented in glass lined concrete for 15-20 days, without the aid of temperature control or selected yeasts. The wine then ages in medium and large casks for 3 years before being released in the fall of the fourth year after the vintage. Mascarello’s wines remain some of the most age-worthy wines of the region. They are perhaps a bit less clean and perfect than the modern wines we have become accustomed to, but these highly idiosyncratic wines deserve attention from those who seek to understand what traditional Barolo is all about.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

The 2001 Barolo (from magnum) offers up licorice, tobacco, smoke, plums and prunes. The fruit has begun to fade, yielding to early tertiary scents as this medium-bodied wine continues to open up over time. The 2001 has more than enough depth and persistence to drink well for a number of years, but it is also more forward than I expected. Stylistically, the 2001 is on the delicate side, and does not appear to be built for the long haul. This is a period when the Mascarello wines were inconsistent, something proprietor Maria-Theresa Mascarello has addressed in a big way over the last few years. As it turns out, I also tasted a magnum of the 1993 next to the 2001 and found it much more youthful, rich and ageworthy. There is little question which of the two vintages I would prefer to own. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Very funky. Smells like a warm room with two wet dogs in it. Yet some of the funk blows off, giving it lovely plum and berry character. Medium-bodied, with a sweet fruit finish. Drink now. 1,570 cases made.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add