The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is one of the more reserved wines in the range, unwinding in the glass with aromas of orange zest, confit citrus, crisp yellow apple and white flowers. It's medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids and a long, saline finish. Forget it for the better part of a decade in the cellar and reap the rewards, even if it will be approachable sooner.