The recently bottled, superb 1998 Pagos Viejos is one of the greatest Riojas I have ever tasted. A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet nose of violets, black fruits, minerals, toasty new oak, and smoke. The wine is full-bodied, with gorgeous purity, amazing symmetry for its exceptional size, and an incredibly well-delineated finish. In short, it is great stuff! Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.
ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567