Elegant, fresh, and lively, but lacking the substance and concentration of the vintage’s finest wines, this 2009 should be drunk during its first decade. (Tasted once.)

A pleasing nose of cinnamon, plum, earth, spice, Port, blackberry and blackcurrant. Fairly rich, concentrated and dense, with enough acidity to keep it from being heavy. It has lots of oak, ripe tannins and a lingering length. Fine potential. Drink from 2014. Alc: 15%. (16.75 points)