Served blind, Keller's 2012 Riesling G-Max is the fourth wine of the vertical tasting, following the warm vintages of 2005, 2007 and 2009. The wine opens with clear, ripe, slightly warm and even creamy fruit with citrus aromas and stony nuances as well as still reductive phenolic notes. Elegant, juicy and spicy on the palate, with fine salinity yet without the power and sustainability of the first three Rieslings, Keller's 2012 G-Max embodies a rather classic, middle-aged style that should not be underestimated. Tasted at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.