The 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Amaral is sourced from the cool-climate Leyda Valley. Medium straw-colored, it offers a fragrant bouquet of freshly cut hay, gooseberry, and minerals. This is followed by a beautifully balanced wine with layers of savory flavor, vibrant acidity, and a lengthy finish. Drink this Sancerre look-alike over the next 2-3 years. It is an outstanding value. Montgras produces wine under several labels (Montgras, Amaral, Intigra, and Ninquen) and a range of prices.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642; www.palmbay.com

MontGras’s new label from Leyda is Amaral, and when I first tasted it last summer it was so young and jumpy that it had spritz. Now it has settled, and despite having a whiff of green and ocean foam, the passion fruit, apple and citrus flavors are at their best. It's a loud wine with kick, and our bet is that it should be drunk right away. However, at 14.5% it may seem aggressive to those who prefer restrained white wines.——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 87