The 2007 Merlot Marques de Casa Concha exhibits aromas of cigar box, clove, cinnamon, plum, and mulberry followed by a ripe, sweet wine lacking the unctuosity of the Carmenere. Nevertheless, this is a full-flavored, pleasure-bent Merlot that should help restore this grape’s good name. Drink it from 2011 through 2019. Concha y Toro is Chile’s largest winery in volume and, remarkably given its size, one of its finest in overall quality. However, the entry level Casillero del Diablo range had more misses than hits. The Trio Series is made by one of Chile’s most renowned winemakers, Ignacio Recabarren, who is also responsible for the other-worldly Terrunyo Carmenere Carmin de Peumo. The Trio wines rank with the greatest wine bargains on the planet.Importer: Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY; Tel: (800) 635-6511

As the production on this wine climbs (it’s up to 35,000 cases now), the final product becomes more generic. An opening of bold berry fruit comes with a pounding mix of oaky vanilla and milk chocolate, while the palate has acidity for zest but also a lot of creamy oak. Very oaky on the finish, leaving a lasting impression that’s more about resin and vanilla than fruit or individuality.——M.S.(7/1/2010)—— 85