Similar to the 2008, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Passionnement (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is slightly more forward and floral, but with more structure, tannin and density than most 2009s. (Not yet released)One of northern California’s most talented wine producers is Frenchman Luc Morlet, who is also a consultant at Peter Michael Winery where his brother is firmly in charge. All of his Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from the Sonoma Coast and Russian River as well as his Syrahs from Bennett Valley will be reviewed in the February, 2011 issue. His extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon portfolio include two offerings from Oakville (which emerge from the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard) and one from Knight’s Valley. The stunning 2008s are as good if not better than the Morlet 2007s. The 2009s appear to be among the most promising wines of the vintage which will be much more irregular than the 2007s or even the 2008s in Napa.Tel. (707) 967-8690

The 2009 Passionnement (Cabernet Sauvignon) is a beautifully focused, layered wine. Sweet roses, flowers of all sorts, dark red berries, licorice and new leather flow gracefully from this supple, silky wine. The Passionnement possesses lovely textural depth and plenty of volume in a racy, sleek style. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com