Most of the Shiraz goes into American oak, says Ferrari, and most of the Cab sees French oak. Oak, indeed, is the operative word for this wine, at least for now. Though the nice red plum and blackberry nuances are easy to find, wood plays a big role here, lending butterscotch and toast flavors from beginning to end, and rustic tannins to the mouthfeel. Ferrari advises us to uncork this vintage in honor of her 50th birthday (that’s in 11 years!). ——W.E.(5/1/2003)—— 89