Only the finest vintages seem to live beyond 12 or 13 years of age, and I guess the 2004 Emilio Rojo could see its 20th birthday in good shape. The wine is developed and honeyed but feels a lot younger than the 2007. It makes me think of a mature Chenin Blanc, with complexity, depth and nuance and the classical and recurring notes of moss, ash, smoke and honey. This is perfect for current drinking and the finest wine in the tasting. Bravo!