Singerriedel and a bit of Hochrin fruit inform Hirtzberger’s 2005 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, a wine of enormous density, with super-concentrated flavors of apricot paste, honey, nut oils, and cinnamon. Rich and fat without being at all heavy, it leaves an enormous trail of fruit and spice and – embryonic as it is now – is bound to blossom further with time. That said, it is not now, and never will be remotely as striking as its Beerenauslese counterpart.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700