The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Pianrosso is made from the estate’s oldest vineyards. It is vinified along the same line as the regular bottling, but gets a few additional months in cask prior to bottling. This full-bodied, velvety Brunello is endowed with plenty of dark fruit, smoke, iron and tar. The tannins finish big, but the wine appears to have enough depth and length on the palate to provide a good measure of balance. The Pianrosso comes across as surprisingly fresh in this vintage, which should allow it to age more gracefully, if not necessarily longer, than the normal bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini is upbeat about his 2003 Brunellos. It is the first vintage in which he had the tools to perform a cold soak, which he feels was especially critical in preserving as much freshness as possible in the wines. For the Brunellos, fermentation and maceration lasted several weeks and the wines were aged in cask. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Pianrosso boasts pristine and very delicate aromas of blue flowers, violets, Indian spice, chopped mint, cola, vanilla extract and bitter dark chocolate. The wine exhibits firm, dark extraction yet does not taste heavy or overripe.