The 2005 Pongelli (equal parts Sangiovese and Montepulciano) is a tasty, fruit-driven red that is perfect for lighter, simpler fare. It offers excellent length and a soft, pleasing personality. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Bucci is a reference-point producer for Verdicchio.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a 50-50 Montepulciano and Sangiovese blend that genuinely reflects the territory it comes from: Aromas of wet earth, blackberry, leather, spice and red beets are woven tightly together. Well-built and firm, the wine shows good persistency on the finish and can stand up to stewed meats or aged cheeses.——M.L.(12/1/2007)—— 86