The 2005 Barolo Cascina Nuova, the estate’s entry-level Barolo, looks to be a good candidate for near-term drinking, as early signs of advancement are present. Dried cherries, sweet herbs and tobacco are some of the nuances found in a Barolo that starts off rather delicate and ethereal, but then turns muscular in the glass. The Cascina Nuova is the old Barolo normale bottling. The wine is made from the youngest vines on the property and spends two years in large, neutral oak. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021.
This is an outstanding set of new releases from Cogno, one of Piedmont’s under the radar stars. Proprietors Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno are doing great work at their small, family-run property. From top to bottom, all of these wines merit your attention. The Barolos in particular are special. Fermentation is done with the traditional submerged cap method and the wines stay in contact with the skins for an additional two weeks or so, taking the total time of fermentation/maceration to roughly 30 days, a bit longer than had been the case in the recent past. Like many estates in Piedmont, Cogno has increased the amount of large, neutral oak used for the Barolos and is relying less on small French oak barrels.
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