The 2009 Barolo Cascina Nuova is less exciting than it has been in the past. The bouquet lacks the disciplined focus that usually characterizes the wine. Raw cherries and ripe blackberries dominate the wine’s petite frame. Surely, that adolescent awkwardness will evolve into something more promising in a few more years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2022. A visit to the cellars of Elvio Cogno is always a fascinating learning experience. I had my first taste of a beautifully fresh and fragrant white wine made with the Nascetta grape here a few years ago. The variety was new to many of us then, but thanks to vintner Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia Cogno it is strongly identified with the territory today. More recently, the couple started to produce limited cases of Barbera d’Alba made from pre-phylloxera vines (most more than a century old). That they were able to tap into that ancient genetic patrimony in this well-trodden part of Italy is something of a small miracle. They are also credited with putting the little-known Novello township on the Barolo map. Importer: Imported by Elvio Cogno, Suasalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

Lush and velvety in texture, boasting macerated cherry, plum sauce, leather and spice flavors. Firm on the finish, but should come together soon. Best from 2015 through 2026. 2,500 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add