Winemaker Morten Hallgren harnesses a traditional Italian grape-drying technique called appassimento to create this richly concentrated but dry Chardonnay. Initial notes of smoke and roasted hazelnut skins fade on the nose and palate to reveal a clean, fresh apple and pear character, speckled with white flowers and a bright lemon-lime acidity.——A.I.(12/1/2011)—— 87